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Constructing Materiality: Understanding the aesthetic production value chain of traditional textiles

Traditional textiles such as saris and other garments mean differently to different stakeholders as they move through the value chain. These fabrics move from the producers – weavers to consumers through varied channels and each of these channels have the same or different intermediaries. Broadly these intermediaries are cooperatives, master weavers, store owners, NGOs, social organizations, etc. As the same piece of fabric traverses this chain, what it means to these stakeholders differ. For instance, a customer may buy a purple-coloured checked sari because it is her favourite colour or since it reminds of her grandmother or because she does not have it in her wardrobe or because the storeowner gave a discount. For the store owner, this sari has not been sold for many months and would like to dispose of it to bring in a more contemporary product, off-season, and traditional saris like these do not sell. For a master weaver and a weaver, it is just a part of their livelihood and perhaps chose this colour because that was the only colour available with the local dye trader. While the narrative here may seem very contrived and convenient, the traditional textile market comprises millions of such interactions across the value chain and the year.

Project Team
Suresh Bhagavatula
Sponsor
IIM Bangalore
Select Project Type
Ongoing Projects
Project Status
Ongoing (Initiated in February 2021)
Funded Projects Functional Area
NSRCEL

Constructing Materiality: Understanding the aesthetic production value chain of traditional textiles

Project Team: Suresh Bhagavatula
Sponsor: IIM Bangalore
Project Status: Ongoing (Initiated in February 2021)
Area: NSRCEL
Abstract:

Traditional textiles such as saris and other garments mean differently to different stakeholders as they move through the value chain. These fabrics move from the producers – weavers to consumers through varied channels and each of these channels have the same or different intermediaries. Broadly these intermediaries are cooperatives, master weavers, store owners, NGOs, social organizations, etc. As the same piece of fabric traverses this chain, what it means to these stakeholders differ. For instance, a customer may buy a purple-coloured checked sari because it is her favourite colour or since it reminds of her grandmother or because she does not have it in her wardrobe or because the storeowner gave a discount. For the store owner, this sari has not been sold for many months and would like to dispose of it to bring in a more contemporary product, off-season, and traditional saris like these do not sell. For a master weaver and a weaver, it is just a part of their livelihood and perhaps chose this colour because that was the only colour available with the local dye trader. While the narrative here may seem very contrived and convenient, the traditional textile market comprises millions of such interactions across the value chain and the year.